i need the sea because it teaches me

Growing up surrounded by Hawaiian waters, you understand the skill possessed by those who master the art of riding waves. To become one with something as shifting and temperamental as the ocean, however, lifts you above athleticism into a soulful status.

The sudden passing of surfing icon Andy Irons left many shocked and saddened. And it left me also speechless. How could someone who so perfectly subdued the sea, be himself conquered?

With nothing in my creative core to offer such a paragon of surfing--and legend of Hawai`i--I instead decided to dedicate a verse from Pablo Neruda, a poet who harnessed the ocean, even if with only his words. An ocean-minded friend of mine shared this poem with me years ago, and today I pass it on to all who find as much meaning in the sea as Andy did.

I need the sea because it teaches me.

I don't know if I learn music or awareness,

if it is a single wave or it's vast existence,

or only it's harsh voice or it's shining

suggestion of fish and ships.

The fact is that until I fall asleep,

in some magnetic way I move 

in the university of the waves.

-Pablo Neruda

May you rest in the eternal lull of the sea..
(07.24.78-11.2.10)